Traditional soda fountains may be in short supply, but to find one you don't have to venture further than Humboldt Park.
For nearly a decade, a neighborhood favorite has become a fixture there. In many cases, updating some of the flavors while still making everything from scratch.
The past is inspiration at Spinning J Bakery & Soda Fountain, which hugs a well-worn corner in the neighborhood. But the forces behind it don’t let history get in the way of creativity.
“We are an old-fashioned soda fountain and lunch counter. We make everything in-house – all of our bread, pastry, pie,” said Dinah Grossman, the owner.
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The 1920s era marble bar and barstools were salvaged from Milwaukee. Most of the space was built using reclaimed and recycled materials. But they start fresh each day when it comes to sandwiches, where you’ve got a few good options first thing in the morning.
“So the breakfast sandwiches are usually on our homemade English muffins: scrambled egg, bacon from Slagel Farm…” she said.
A homemade bialy with cream cheese is an excellent base for smoked trout and hot giardiniera – the lovechild of a Jewish-Italian deli if there ever was one.
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“And then we also do a gravlax bialy,” added Grossman.
Pastries and cookies run the gamut from old school to new school.
“Sort of classic style with the buttermilk biscuits but we also do a buttermilk biscuit with blue cheese and herb. We always have a few things that are a little bit different too, like a layered pastry with artichoke hearts, brie and smoked gouda. We do a cinnamon roll but it’s a sourdough cinnamon roll with malted vanilla icing,” she said.
At lunch, there are usually five well-chosen sandwiches, including a stellar tuna melt with house-made pickles, dill and sharp white cheddar stacked between slices of homemade sourdough. And then of course, there’s dessert, including a cake and pie lineup that will leave you with some hard decisions.
“Bundt cakes, we do matcha tea cake with almond. Instead of just a key lime pie we have a key lime hibiscus pie with a blueberry compote, and we do a s’mores pie with a homemade marshmallow topping. We have a cheesecake with a guava topping,” said Grossman.
The café also serves as a de facto wine shop, coffee shop and meeting place, where there’s always something tempting on display.
“Really classic, familiar, comforting stuff,” she said.
Pie orders for the holidays are almost done. Their signature pie during Thanksgiving is a cranberry-yuzu meringue pie, but you can’t go wrong with any of their flavors. Do be on the lookout for a raspberry-pear-ginger crumble. I devoured one all by myself.
Here's where you can go:
Spinning J
1000 N. California
872-829-2793
