the food guy

The Food Guy: The Lawn at the Wilmette Golf Club

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Expectations typically run low at your neighborhood public golf course dining room. Wilmette’s was no different.

“It was kind of a glorified hot dog stand,” said Michael Madden.

So Madden – a Wilmette native who launched a pair of Left Coast Food & Juice concepts in the city – decided to tackle a refresh.

“My education, my friends, my family, the game of golf, everything I got from this amazing town, and this is sort of my way to give back to the community,” he said.

You can start off with chunky pimento cheese and grilled bread, or a trio of crispy Virginia oyster lettuce wraps with kimchi remoulade and radish. Heartier starters include St. Louis ribs – smoked, fried then tossed in Korean barbecue sauce, showered in pickled peanuts and scallions.

At lunch, a crab cake features mostly lump meat, seared then served over mustard crème fraiche and several spoonfuls of roasted corn salsa.

“Real Maryland crab – I don’t know too many places that do that,” he said.

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There’s a chopped salad with pretty rows of pumpkin seeds, corn and smoked salmon, as well as couscous, to be tossed at the table with a creamy basil dressing. Meanwhile, the turkey club features Publican Quality whole wheat bread slathered with dijonaise, plus smoked turkey and Benton’s bacon.

“The bacon in the club sandwich we bring in from Tennessee.”

Also tomatoes, ripe avocado, red onions and lettuce. It’s a two-hander for sure. At dinner, the fried chicken is gluten free, served with crispy Brussels sprouts and a buttermilk biscuit, drizzled with hot honey.

“Harrison’s chicken is kind of a local favorite. All of our meat comes from a local butcher in town here; he only brings in Prime meat,” said Madden.

USDA Prime Rib is shaved thin for the French Dip, served with horseradish crème fraiche and a side car of au jus.

Even the Transfusion – a refreshing golf course staple – contains grape juice with a specific provenance.

“We fly in our concord grapes,” he said.

Madden says the response has been a pleasant surprise to locals.

“People come in and try the food. They’re blown away,” he said.

Here's where you can go:

The Lawn at the Wilmette Golf Club

3900 Fairway Dr., Wilmette

847-256-9626

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